If you’re shopping for your first or second Birkin, chances are you’ve already come across the words Sellier and Retourne and wondered why they matter so much. They sound fancy, very French, and honestly a little intimidating if you’re new to Hermès. The good news is that once you understand what these terms actually mean, choosing between a Birkin Sellier vs Retourne becomes much more intuitive.
In this guide, I’ll break it all down in a practical and beginner-friendly way. We’ll talk about what Sellier and Retourne mean, why Hermès uses these constructions, how much each bag really fits, the impression each style gives, and how to style them in real life.
What Do “Sellier” and “Retourne” Actually Mean?
Let’s start with the terminology, because this is where most confusion comes from.
Sellier and Retourne are French leather construction techniques, not bag models. Hermès applies these traditional methods to several bags, but they are most famously associated with the Birkin.
Sellier comes from the French word sellier, meaning saddler. In Sellier construction, the bag is stitched from the outside. This creates crisp edges, sharp corners, and a very structured silhouette. You can usually spot a Sellier Birkin by how clean and architectural it looks, almost like it’s holding its shape on its own.
Retourne literally means turned inside out. In this construction, the bag is stitched on the inside and then turned right-side out. This results in softer edges, rounded corners, and a more relaxed, slouchy look over time.
Hermès uses these two methods because they reflect its deep roots in equestrian craftsmanship. Rather than changing the design of the bag itself, the house lets construction technique define the personality of the bag.
Birkin Sellier vs Retourne: Is There a Difference in Volume?
This is one of the most common questions, and also one of the most misunderstood.
From my personal experience owning and using both styles, the volume is essentially the same. In normal, everyday use, I did not notice a meaningful difference in how much a Sellier Birkin fits versus a Retourne Birkin.
Technically, a Retourne Birkin can fit slightly more if you really push it to the maximum. But here’s my honest take: once you stuff a Retourne Birkin to that level, the bag becomes extremely heavy and honestly doesn’t look good anymore. The beauty of a Birkin is in its shape and proportions, not how much you can cram inside.
Unless your goal is to overfill the bag, which I don’t recommend, both Sellier and Retourne will comfortably carry your essentials like wallet, phone, keys, sunglasses, makeup pouch, and even a small tablet depending on size. For everyday luxury use, I consider the capacity to be the same.
If you’re more of a visual person, I also shared a side-by-side comparison in a short reel on Instagram, where you can see how a Birkin Sellier and a Birkin Retourne look and move in real life. Sometimes seeing the bags worn and carried makes the difference much clearer.
The Impression Each Bag Gives
This is where the real difference shows up.
A Birkin Sellier gives a more polished, formal, and powerful impression. The sharp structure makes it feel elegant and intentional, almost like a statement piece. It naturally reads as dressier and more refined, even when paired with simple outfits.
A Birkin Retourne, on the other hand, feels softer and more effortless. The rounded edges and relaxed structure make it look approachable and lived-in. Over time, it develops a beautiful slouch that many collectors love.
Neither is better. They just communicate different moods.
If you want a bag that feels crisp, elevated, and slightly more formal, Sellier delivers that energy. If you prefer something relaxed, chic, and easygoing, Retourne feels more natural.
How to Style Birkin Sellier vs Retourne
Styling is where your personal lifestyle really comes into play.
Styling a Birkin Sellier
Sellier Birkins pair beautifully with tailored and structured looks. Think blazers, trousers, coats, dresses, and polished shoes. Even a minimal outfit instantly looks more elevated when you add a Sellier Birkin. This is a great choice if your wardrobe leans classic, elegant, or work-appropriate.
Styling a Birkin Retourne
Retourne Birkins shine in casual and everyday styling. They look amazing with denim, knits, relaxed dresses, flats, loafers, and sandals. The softer structure balances casual outfits and makes the bag feel wearable rather than precious.
If you’re someone who wants one bag to throw on daily without overthinking it, Retourne often feels easier to style.
Which One Is Better for Your First or Second Birkin?
If this is your first Birkin, I usually suggest thinking about your lifestyle before anything else. If you dress casually most days and want a bag that feels natural and forgiving, Retourne is often the easier starting point. If you love polished looks and want your bag to feel like a statement, Sellier can be incredibly satisfying.
For a second Birkin, many collectors enjoy adding contrast. If your first was Retourne, a Sellier brings something new and structured to your collection, and vice versa.
At the end of the day, both constructions are timeless, iconic, and equally “correct.” The best choice is the one that fits your style and how you actually live with your bag.
Final Thoughts
When it comes to Birkin Sellier vs Retourne, the difference isn’t about quality or value. It’s about structure, impression, and how you want your bag to show up in your life.
The volume is essentially the same in real use. The real decision comes down to whether you prefer sharp and structured or soft and relaxed. Once you see them this way, choosing becomes much easier and a lot more fun.
If you’re just starting your Hermès journey, take your time, try both in person if you can, and trust your instincts. There’s no wrong choice here, only the one that feels most you.
